Subotica: A Journey to Serbia's Most Hungarian City
Subotica: The City of Charming Swirls and Three Names
In the north of Serbia lies a remarkable city known as the place of 'charming swirls' and the city with three names. Its architectural appearance was largely borrowed from Hungary, making it one of the most vibrant and charming spots in the country.
This city is named Subotica and attracts visitors with its unique atmosphere, where Serbian and Hungarian cultures intertwine. Cozy streets, elegant buildings, and an abundance of greenery create the impression of a European resort that you want to return to again and again.
How to Get to Subotica from Belgrade
| Trip Expenses | Cost |
|---|---|
| Bus ticket | ~ 1500 dinars (~12.8 EUR) |
| Platform card | ~ 220 dinars (~1.71 EUR) |
The bus journey from Belgrade to Subotica takes about three and a half hours. The cost of the trip and related expenses have their own peculiarities that should be considered when planning your journey.
The main bus ticket will cost 1500 dinars. However, to get to the bus station platform, you must also purchase a so-called 'platform card' for 220 dinars. This is a mandatory requirement, and without it, you will not be allowed to board the bus, even if you have the main ticket. The purpose of this fee is not entirely clear, as other services at the station, such as the restroom, are also paid.
Choosing a Bus Carrier: The Serbian Lottery
The comfort of buses in Serbia is a matter of chance. Two main companies operate on the Belgrade-Subotica route, and the quality of their services can vary greatly from trip to trip.
- Niš-Ekspres
- Lasta
During a previous trip from Novi Sad in February 2023, I had the chance to experience both companies. The ticket for the 'Niš-Ekspres' bus was more expensive, but the vehicle was old. On the way back, I rode in a luxurious double-decker bus from the 'Lasta' company, although the ticket was cheaper. This time, choosing 'Lasta' in hopes of comfort, I had to travel in an old 90s-style minibus. Therefore, it's impossible to predict which bus you'll get, and if possible, it's better to travel by your own or a rented car.
The Hungarian Trace: Architecture and Culture of the Northernmost City
Subotica is the northernmost city in Serbia, located just 10 kilometers from the Hungarian border. This proximity has had a profound influence on its culture and daily life. Street names are duplicated in Serbian and Hungarian, and the Hungarian language is widely used in everyday life alongside Serbian.
One-third of the city's population is Hungarian, with the rest being Serbs, Croats, Roma, and other peoples. The centerpiece of the architectural ensemble is the magnificent City Hall, built during the Austro-Hungarian era. There is even a belief that the empire considered moving its capital from Vienna to Subotica. Today, this huge building houses a wide variety of institutions:
- McDonald's
- Pre-trial detention center
- Mayor's Office
- Various archives
Architectural Gems: Raichle Palace and the Synagogue
| Name of Subotica | Used by |
|---|---|
| Subotica | Official Serbian name |
| Maria-Theresiopel | Austrians and Germans (historical) |
| Szabadka | Hungarians |
Subotica owes its elegant appearance to Hungarian influence, particularly the ceramics brought from a Hungarian factory. One of the main attractions is the Raichle Palace (Palata Rajhla). Architect Ferenc Raichle built it in 1904 for his family, but soon went bankrupt and left. Since 1970, the building has housed the Modern Art Gallery. The facade is adorned with unusual bas-reliefs, which are popularly nicknamed the 'screaming men'.
Another major architectural landmark is the local Synagogue. Interestingly, its decoration was handled by the architects who came in second in the design competition. The local authorities listened to the opinion of the Jewish community, who preferred their project. This synagogue is considered one of the most beautiful in the world and one of the largest in Europe.
The Atmosphere of a European Resort and Potential for Living
Subotica creates the feeling of being in a cozy European resort, something that is sometimes lacking in large cities like Belgrade or Novi Sad. Despite the fact that all the beauty is concentrated in a compact center, this is more of a plus. The city is very convenient for walking, with all shops, cafes, and attractions within walking distance.
For those who work remotely, for example in IT, Subotica could be an ideal place to relocate. It has all the necessary infrastructure and even a Russian-speaking community. Rental prices are noticeably lower than in the capital: you can find an apartment for 350-500 euros, and for 700 euros, you can rent a luxurious two-bedroom apartment with modern renovations.
A Trip to Lake Palić and Tips for Travelers
Six kilometers from Subotica lies the picturesque Lake Palić. You can get there in several ways:
- By bus No. 6 (the trip takes 20 minutes and costs 200 dinars).
- By taxi (10-15 minutes, cost up to 1000 dinars).
There are many guest houses, hotels, and restaurants around the lake. Here you can walk, ride bicycles, rickshaws, or boats. However, swimming in the lake is not recommended due to water quality. One of the features of Palić are the beautiful fairy-tale style houses, all designed in a unified style.
Travelers should keep in mind that in small towns, especially on weekends, it can be difficult to find an open pharmacy. For example, in Palić on a Sunday, the pharmacy is only open until one in the afternoon. Therefore, it is recommended to always carry a first-aid kit with necessary medications.
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