A Year of Life in Belgrade: Visas, Taxes, Prices, and Life Hacks for Expats

Geography of Belgrade: A Map of 'Russian' Life

After a year of living in Belgrade, the city map takes on new meanings. Special marks appear on it—so-called 'Russian spots.' These are establishments with Russian roots: from coffee shops and bars to beauty salons and barbershops, of which there turned out to be a surprising number in the city.

Most of life, about 95% of the time, takes place within a conditional 'green zone' outlined on the map. The city center, located in the Dorćol district, is the epicenter of this activity—this is where most Russian-speaking establishments are concentrated. The walk from residential areas, like Zvezdara, to the center takes about 40 minutes.

Belgrade has no metro, but there is a nice bonus—free public transport. This year, fares for trams and buses were abolished for everyone, including locals, tourists, and foreigners. This significantly simplifies getting around the city.

The central part of Belgrade resembles European capitals with its narrow streets, abundance of greenery, and beautiful architecture. It is also home to major attractions like the Church of Saint Sava and the Kalemegdan Fortress, as well as many European consulates.

Visas and Travel: The Schengen Reality and Other Destinations

Many who move to Serbia expect easy access to travel around Europe, but obtaining a Schengen visa here is no simple task. Relocators face several main difficulties.

1. Visa duration and type. Most often, consulates issue single-entry visas strictly for the dates of the planned trip, which rules out spontaneous travel.

1. Cost. The application process involves expenses: fees, translations, insurance. In total, it costs at least 150 euros per person.

1. Lack of appointments. It is almost impossible to book an appointment to submit documents at the consulates of popular countries like Spain, France, or Italy due to a lack of available slots.

A solution can be to apply through the German visa center, Visametric, where you can submit documents without a long wait. The cost for two people is about 360 euros. However, it's worth noting that since October 2025, this center has also introduced an appointment system with slots that are no longer freely available.

There were no problems obtaining a visa for Japan—the documents were collected according to the list on the consulate's website, and a single-entry visa was issued for the trip dates. However, the experience with a B1/B2 tourist visa for the USA was unsuccessful: two rejections six months apart, despite having a residence permit and a business in Serbia. Approval likely requires stronger ties to the country: owning property, having a family, or a business with employees.

Business and Taxes: The Life of a Sole Proprietor in Serbia

Opening a sole proprietorship (IP - individualno preduzetništvo) is the most popular way for relocators to legalize their stay in Serbia. It is a more stable option than 'visa runs'—regularly leaving the country every 30 days.

In Serbia, there are two main forms of taxation for entrepreneurs, each with its own features.

Most choose the 'paušalac' system. The tax amount is recalculated annually, but the increase cannot exceed 10%. For example, a tax of 267 euros in 2024 increased to 289 euros in 2025. This system is advantageous as long as the annual income does not exceed the set limit.

From the second year of business, sole proprietors are required to pay an ecological tax (eco-tax). It's small, about 50 euros, but paying it is a bureaucratic quest. First, you need to submit a declaration of intent to pay, then wait half a year for the bill, pay it, and confirm that the payment went through.

Climate and Seasons: 200 Sunny Days a Year

Despite the ecological tax, the air quality in Belgrade during winter leaves much to be desired due to heating in the private sector. In apartments, heating is often electric and not always efficient, leading to electricity bills of $70-100 in the winter months.

Winter in Belgrade itself is quite mild. Daytime temperatures are usually above freezing, and at night, it's around zero. Snow falls, but not for long. In the run-up to the holidays, a Christmas market operates in the city.

Spring is rightfully considered the best time of year in Belgrade. In March, it can already be +20°C, the city blossoms, and walking around becomes particularly pleasant. The weather here is much more stable than, for example, in Moscow.

While Moscow has about 100 sunny days a year, Belgrade has almost 200. In summer, there are hardly any days when you can't go out in shorts and a T-shirt, unlike the rainy summer season in central Russia.

Leisure and Food: From the Botanical Garden to a 3D Restaurant

Belgrade has many interesting places for recreation. One of them is the 'Jevremovac' Botanical Garden, located near the center. Admission costs 400 dinars (about $3.88). The grounds include a greenhouse, a botanical department, and a cozy Japanese exhibit with a pond, carp, and bamboo.

Over the past year, many establishments with Japanese cuisine have appeared in the city: you can find mochi, rolls, ramen, and matcha. Food prices are generally comparable to Moscow's, and sometimes lower, while portions are often larger. Lunch for two will cost an average of $40.

A special place among establishments is the Le Petit Chef restaurant. Its main feature is a 3D animation projected onto the table and plate before each of the five courses of the set menu is served. It's more of a show than a gastronomic delight, but it leaves an unforgettable impression. The set menu costs $100-120 without drinks, and you need to book a table in advance.

Belgrade also regularly hosts various food festivals, such as burger fests, where you can try products from local establishments. One popular spot is 'KP-Burgers,' which stands for 'Krasnodarsky Paren' (Krasnodar Guy).

Everyday Matters: Dentistry and Entertainment

The service industry in Belgrade is actively developing, partly thanks to relocators. For example, finding a good Russian-speaking dentist is not difficult. The quality of service in private clinics is high, and they use modern technologies like a rubber dam to isolate the tooth during treatment.

• Professional cleaning and treatment of one simple cavity — 17,000 dinars (about $150).
• Treatment of a complex cavity with the installation of a ceramic crown made on-site — 50,000 dinars (about $450).

For entertainment, a large arcade center with 'Gatcha' claw machines recently opened in Belgrade, where you can win plush toys. The place is reminiscent of similar arcades in Japan, although the toys here are mostly Chinese-made. Token prices: 5 for 720 dinars ($6.5) or 20 for 2,400 dinars ($21.6).

As for online shopping, Serbia doesn't have the familiar Russian marketplaces, but they are partially replaced by the service Temu. Orders are delivered directly to your door within three weeks without the need to pay customs duties.

Friends and Future Plans

Life as an expatriate is full of unexpected events. Over the year in Serbia, there have been significant changes in our circle of friends: some got married right here in Belgrade, and being witnesses at their wedding meant urgently finding formal attire, while others decided to move on and relocated to Spain.

Such events make you think about your own future. A significant factor is the changing tax system. After exceeding the limit for 'paušalac,' you have to switch to the 'knjižgaš' system, where the tax is no longer a fixed 300 euros but about 20% of your income.

This financial aspect presents a choice: stay in Serbia and adapt to the new conditions, or perhaps seek new horizons, as some of our friends have done. Life goes on, and each new stage brings its own questions and decisions.